Ireland has more flowers than any place I have ever seen. The range and variety of wildflowers, cultivated flowers and gardens is a constant source of amazement and enjoyment.
And I love to photograph them.
So last week, on a particularly fine evening, I made the 25 km (15 miles) trek to visit Lismore Castle and Gardens.
Lismore may be familiar to collectors of Waterford Glass as it is also the name of one of their more famous patterns.
But in Co. Waterford, Lismore is a charming, historic town situated on the banks of the Blackwater River. The impressive,12th century Castle, originally built by Prince John, son of Henry II has a long and storied history.
It’s outer walls still bear the marks of bombardment by Oliver Cromwell’s forces. When Prince John became King John, the castle was given to the Church. Sir Walter Raleigh was the next owner. But when he was sent to the Tower, the castle and it’s 42,000 acres was sold for £1500. In today’s money, that is about €250,000 or $325,000 – still a more than reasonable sum.
Since 1753 the castle has been owned by the Dukes of Devonshire who continue to live there today. Famous visitors have included Fred Astaire (whose sister married to the ninth Duke), President John F. Kennedy (whose sister Kathleen “Kick” married the heir to the tenth Dukedom), royals, athletes, politicians, and rock stars.
Today, in addition to the famous castle, there are 7 acres of stunning formal gardens where you can wander to your heart’s content. The Sixth Duke of Devonshire (1790-1858) was an avid gardener. His friend, the famous architect of hothouses and gardens, Sir Joseph Paxton,(1801-1865) who designed the gardens at Lismore.
The first thing I saw when I entered was the walled kitchen garden nearly overflowing with green beans, carrots, potatoes, and cabbages. Walled kitchen gardens served a variety of purposes. They kept out vermin – although I would be hard pressed to call a bunny “vermin”. But the high walls kept a variety of animals away. And they served to shelter the garden from damaging wind.
I love walled gardens. They take me back to my childhood – there was a walled kitchen garden at my father’s home in Riddlestown and I remember my childish fascination as I went out with my grandmother to pick apples for a tart or dig potatoes for the dinner.
They also remind me of one of my favourite books, The Secret Garden, by Frances Hodgson Burnett. If you haven’t read it, you must! Walled gardens always seem to speak of a secret world – one where the outside is never allowed in.
As I continued meandering up and down the colourful rows of flowers, I stopped often to snap a picture. Sweet peas of different colours all climbed a trellis together – jumbled up in one giant mountain of flowers.
Row upon row of flowers that I cannot name danced and swayed in the gentle breeze.
I did learn that there is nearly always a breeze in Ireland. It could be a very long wait for the flower to be still enough to snap a picture.
The next section of the garden was more “wild”. Fuschias and poppies and honeysuckle abound. In the center, a small orchard where ricks (pronounced “reeks”) of hay had been gathered as in days long gone. And a pen where a few hens and roosters wandered “free-range.”
If you continue to the farthest corner turret, there are stairs that lead to the lower gardens. Here, ancient trees provide shade and the illusion that this is where the fairies live. Huge rhododendrons line the lawns. Lilies and hydrangeas fight for attention along the path. So much colour your eyes dart from flower to flower.
There are benches located all around the gardens so it’s easy to pick a nice spot to rest or read. In one of the towers in the upper garden there is a small gift/coffee shop with restrooms and tables outside.
And, if you fancy trying to recreate some of the garden at home, they sell a few potted plants.
Lismore Castle Gardens are open daily in the summer. Advance booking is essential. Adults: €8.50 Seniors/Students: €7 Group bookings and tours are also available on request. Parking is available in the town car park. For more information: http://www.lismorecastlegardens.com/